Q I need to strip my roof, do I use felt paper or just shingles on 1x6 boards. I heard that felt paper holds moisture in so shingles can't breath, and shortens the life on shingles.

A Do you mean cedar shingles? With regular roofing shingles, asphalt and fiberglass, roofing paper is still widely used and recommended. (I have heard a few argue against it though)

For Cedar shingles you are right.. no roofing paper, let them breath.

Q I need to re-shingle the roof on a home I just purchased. I am familiar with the basics of the job, but I'm not sure how to tie the main roof shingles into a dormer roof. Could you please offer me some advice on this subject?

A How are the valleys shingled now? Generally I prefer a closed valley shingling. They look neater. When the shingle reaches the valley, let it bend up along the dormer roof. (Don't cut it at the valley) Then do that course of dormer shingles with the same over lap on the main roof.
You alternate back and forth with them using the shingles to cover the valley.

By the way, typically the bag containing the shingles shows this method with a picture.. which is worth a thousand words.

Q I have a brand new home, Cape Cod style w/dormered upstairs windows. I have a new large porch that is also dormered and the roof connects on the upward/backward slope of the house. My husband is a pretty handy guy...but wants some info on shingling the valley where the porch joins the house. We don't want it to leak and want to do the right thing up front...since the porch is new. Need to know what products to buy, like flashing, caulking etc. and some step by step. Any ideas out there?

AThere are two ways to shingle a valley, open or closed. Closed looks much better. It is made by weaving the shingles and presents an unbroken shingle appearance. Open is easier, and is less likely to leak... so your choice. Both are described on every package of shingles. For either, you will want to run a strip of building paper up the valley on top of the other paper. With an open valley, you will want at least a 10" wide strip of flashing running all the way up the valley. The shingles then end about two inches from the center of the valley on either side. With a closed valley sometimes the flashing is left out, but in any case the shingles are alternated bent up and weaved... The picture on the bag shows what I am talking about. attic space.

Q Is there a rating system for roof shingles? How do I know if I am getting 25 year shingles?

A If the shingles come with a 25 year warranty, that is about the best you can do. There are numerous factors that affect their life... roof angle, amount of sun, attic ventilation, etc... but the manufacturer is the best source for its guaranteed life.

Q What is the maximum number of layers of shingles I can have on my roof and still be within building codes? Can I have three layers?

A Call your town/city's building inspector and ask. Some things to consider are pitch, and rafter size. I have heard of numerous cases of going to three layers, but personally I would always rip them all off and start fresh.

Q Does a dark shingle roof retain heat? Does a light shingle roof reject heat?

A Yes to both questions. Choose the shingle that best fits your location.

Q Can anyone tell me if you can shingle a pitched roof that has a pitch of 1" of slope per foot? Currently the roof has rolled roofing but I would like to shingle next time instead. Are there any regulations stating the minimum pitch there must be in order to shingle a roof?

A Shingles are not recommended for roofs with a pitch less than 2" per foot.

Q I have a 2100 sq. ft tri- level it has a low slope roof that is need of a re-roof. It currently has a built up roof. I'm unsure of the terminology but it has rolled roofing material on it. The slope is 2/12. My problem lies in the quotes I'm getting. Some contractor’s say you can't put shingles on that low a slope others say it’s OK. Some say a tea-off is necessary some say no. Help!

A You realize based on the quotes that you are on the edge... so to speak. Roof manufactures DO say shingles can go on a roof with a 2/12 pitch. I can only imagine that the roofers that are reluctant are because they recognize that you may have trouble with that slope and would rather not deal with warrantee issues... But the shingle folk allow use on your pitch. As for stripping or not. Again... that is an issue roofers may be reluctant to cover the old since there is a hazard it won't lay flat. Especially on your low pitched roof. I think the best you can do is check around for the best most trust-worthy roofers and go with their advice.

Q What's the correct slope to have on a patio roof?

A There is no "correct" roof slope. It depends on what you intend to roof it with. But generally, to avoid problems (or complicated solutions) keep the pitch 2" for every 12" of run or steeper.

If you plan on continuing your shingles on to your patio then you should {if possible} make it at least a 2-12 pitch as above but 4-12 is best. if you'll be putting roll roofing on then no more than a 2-12 pitch

Q This past summer the small building, (10 stories) where I live replaced the flat roof. I do not know the specific details; however the use of asphalt with a final layer of gravel on the top was used. During Hurricane Irene, a lot of gravel was blown off the roof causing a lot of damage to cars, windows etc. The roofing company claims this is normal and acceptable. In my limited research, it seems that the gravel should have been poured onto hot asphalt/bitumen so it would adhere. Could you provide any information regarding flat roofs and if this is acceptable?

Another question since the extra gravel (ALOT) was blown off; shouldn't it be replaced since it is needed for heat dissipation? It seems to me inconsistent that the gravel that was blown off was OK but does not need replaced. If it was needed and now just 2 months after the roof was completed is now gone. What happens to the heat dissipation barrier? Again, thanks. I will check with our building code in the area.

A Yep, the gravel should be replaced... It may be normal practice to adhere the first layer of stone into the hot asphalt, but it is NOT normal practice for the subsequent several inches of stone needed for heat dissipation to be adhered to anything.

You can find the answer to your question in a short and simple manner. Contact your local building code enforcement office and ask them what the code is concerning gravel roofs in your community. The next question becomes when did the regulation go into effect and was the roof put on prior to the regulation going into effect. If there is a regulation, and the roof was put on prior to its adoption, you have no recourse.

Q I am looking to add on to my second floor and the addition would only give me a 2/12 roof. The min for shingles is 4/12. What would be best? (Rolled, membrane, or other)?

A A torched roll roof or a membrane would work. The torch will give you a 10-year warranty and the membrane no warranty. The reason for no warranty with the rubber membrane roof is that the manufacturers will not warrant the product for residential applications. Thus, the warranty on the rubber roof is only as good as the mechanic who applies it and offers you one.

For simplicity sake, the torch down rolled roof is best...you may even consider hot tar built up roof.

Q How far apart can I space the rafters under these "plastic" roof panels. The structure I am covering has 24" O.C. "rafters". Do I need to add any additional?

A Wavy wood pieces... I am not sure what else to call them. They are in long lengths and get nailed to the top of the rafters then you install the panels on top of these.You really do not need to do anything else because the real size of the panels are 26" allowing for a 1"overlap on either side.

Q My question is our roof now is in fair condition, but it has a few leaks around the vents. It also has shingles coming up. We had a roofer come out and in his opinion we should re-roof rather than repair to appropriately address the leaks and loose or raised shingles. The job would cover the following reroof over exiting roof, remove ridge cap, cover roof deck with 25 YR ARC. Shingles, replace all plumbing flashing and J vents, supply and install 4 new attic vents, remove 2 existing air vents, flash chimney, city permits, clean up trash, as well as labor and fasteners to apply roofing. Is it a common roofing process? Is this process done a lot?

A What you describe is a typical comprehensive reroofing job. It doesn't sound like anything is offered that would be considered outrageous. Perhaps some of the flashing or vents are ok as is, but the cost of these is not that high, and if he felt that they should be replaced, then maybe they should. The important thing is getting someone that you can trust. Ask for a list of his most recent customers and give them a call. If they are happy, you will be too, most likely.

Q What temperature does it need to be to install a roof?

A It really doesn't matter. Shingles roofs can and are routinely applied in winter. The only drawback is that tabs do not seal completely until temperatures reach the 50s. There is a slightly greater chance of shingles breaking free until they do.

On the flip side, shingles applied in hot weather soften too much in the sun, and walking on them can damage the surface... My personal preference is to shingle in fall, spring, winter and then summer in that order

Q Is there a post treatment to prevent dry rot from coming back? New plywood and underlay will be installed. Do you need to treat the rafters/joists?

A If they are sound now, the rafters and joists will be okay... as long as you take care of the cause of the problem in the first place. The attic needs more ventilation than you are giving it. Moisture is the cause of the dry rot... and inadequate. The ventilation is the cause of the moisture. Add a ridge vent more soffit vents and perhaps a mechanical roof vent, (if you haven't already) Also; make sure you never vent the bathroom or any other area directly to the attic.